Day Twenty Eight: January 17, 2012.
Pokhara is insanely stunning.
Situated by a sizable lake, Lake Phewa, surrounded by some of the tallest mountains in the world, the Himalayas, and generously lavished with sunlight during the winter months, Pokhara is a near paradise for us, especially after some very rough times in India.
It was a book I read at the tender age of seven, my first explosure to travel literature, that I was presented to Nepal, to the lake – Lake Phewa in Pokhara, and decided I had to come and see it.
Lake Phewa
It’s taken more than two dozen years for a childhood dream to materialize.
About two years ago, I was dining with some friends in a restaurant in Soho named Nepalese eating (apparently) Nepalese cuisine. I developed a fondness of Nepalese people from that dining experience. The waiters and waitresses reminded me of the Laotians, all oozing much friendliness and gentleness and deep-seeded joy. I asked one of the waitresses that evening, “If I am to visit Nepal, where do you recommend?” To which she, without a hesitation, wrote down on my napkin, “Pokhara.”
I kept the napkin with me till I prepared my trip — making sure I wouldn’t skip Pokhara.
Pokhara certainly lives up to its recommendation.
Trust me, it’s a place for everyone.
Money wise, it’s a fraction of the cost of India.
Food wise, it has a mind-boggling selection of world cuisines of great quality and very affordable prices.
Vibe wise, it is so chilled, so relaxing, so soul-soothing.
People wise, they are extremely helpful and friendly and have a sheer appreciation of life.
Adventure wise, extreme sports like paragliding, white-water rafting, mountaineering are available, just to name a few; gentle sports like rowing a boat in the lake and easy treks appeal to the less vigorous.
Spiritual wise, nothing brings you closer to your soul and God quicker and deeper than being exposed to sublime nature.
Scenic view wise, there are couple mountains over 8000m in Pokhara (8 out of the ten tallest mountains in the world can be viewed in Nepal), ice-capped, under blue sky, sunny grassy shore, calm and lovely lake. What more do you need?
I think this picture captures what Pokhara is to me. Sublime nature; sunshine; trusting soul; deep joy; great hopes.
Our whole bodies, emotions and minds were massaged tender when we were in Pokhara. After a night of rest, we left the guesthouse and found a place for coffee and cakes. “Real coffee,” J said, “so much nicer than Nescafe.” The cakes were moist and tasty. We sat at the side-walk, watching happy and relaxing people passing by, tourists and local alike. Winter is the low season in Pokhara. With the sun shining bright and few tourists coming, we found it delightful to visit Pokhara in winter. We could not help being influenced and softened.
As we sat, I could see the man sitting in front of me soften a bit. His eyes turned teary. Life has often presented to us different challenges, sufferings and sadly quite often wounds. J has his own dosage of them. I have my own. So has everyone. We are fully functioning people and both live a good life. But we cannot escape those moments when we peek into our souls and discover some reminiscence of pain and wounds.
“You know, life has its own season. You have had your “Indian” season. A time of challenges. Because of how people harass and hassle you, deal with you with dishonesty and selfish motives, you have developed your own defense,” I said to J, “so you hesitate to trust people again. It’s normal. We need that to protect us. We need to safeguard ourselves if we are in India. We cannot help it.”
I have known J for very soon five years. We have shared a lot together and know each other’s stories. The person in front of me is perhaps one of the happiest and most lively persons I have ever met. Yet I also know his dark side. I also know how fearful he can be when it comes to opening his hearts to trust people. He needs to protect himself because experiences had cost him much in the past.
I continued, “Sweetheart, there’s a time for Pokhara. It would be pathetic to bring Indian experiences to Pokhara. To worry about people cheating on you. To lock yourself in the room instead of coming out to enjoy. It’s a time for healing. Trust that there are people who are genuinely nice and loving. There’s a time for Pokhara. A time to heal. A time to let yourself be. A time to love. A time to truly live.”
Many of us choose, consciously or subconsciously, India. India has its charms. It opens us to many scenes, strengthens our minds, and helps us learn how to endure. Our characters are built as a result of enduring challenges and sufferings. Just like what a trip to India in the most touristic season in the most touristic places can to you.
Yet, some of us cling on to India, cling on to sufferings and pains. We don’t know how to depart them.
There’s a choice. There is a time for Pokhara. A time in which you can accept the gentleness, goodness and friendliness of life, you can be taken aback by how sublime the view of life, a time you can leisurely rest by the lake instead of battling in the mayhem of a shitty town, a time you can confidently say to yourself: I am okay. I am not bad. I can trust people. I can love. I can live. I can be me. It’s all okay.
We sat for a long time at the cafe, letting people stroll by, letting tears fall, letting hearts soften, letting wounds and pains find their exit, letting our own inner voice beckon us to choose love instead of fears, letting the inner child that has been bruised by wounds and chosen to hide in the dark for years come out and embrace the sun.
How can I describe Pokhara? You know many different destinations in the world offer you different experiences. Some satisfy your desire to see grandeur like the Taj Mahal. Some give you a vacation, like Bali. Some pamper your shopping spree, like Japan. Some open your eyes to cultures, like Europe.
A few, magically, open your souls.
Everyone has a different meeting place — where you meet with your soul.
For me, it’s Pokhara.
After some emotionally charging moments, we got perky and excited and started to look for a place to eat steaks. We have not had beef for so long and J was craving for meat.
We tried out at the place called Once Upon a Time. It’s a great ambience but terrible steaks. There are better places for steaks in Pokhara (will tell you later).
Despite a piece of dissatisfying steaks, we trust it’s a great time to celebrate life. Both J and I feel life is truly waving its happy hands at us. It’s really time to begin to live well.
Not to survive, but to live very well.
Beams of light bringing hopes to life.
